For many visitors Granada is the high point of a trip through Andalusia, and that is no accident. At the foot of the Sierra Nevada sits a city where the Moorish past is still tangible everywhere: in the architecture, in the tea houses, in the layout of the old quarters and in the way water is led through the gardens. Granada makes a comfortable day trip from the Costa del Sol, but anyone with the chance should stay a night longer.
The Alhambra
The Alhambra is the palace and fortress complex high above the city, and one of the finest monuments in Europe. The Nasrid palaces, with their plasterwork, wooden domes and still pools of water, leave a deep impression, and the Generalife gardens around them are beautiful in a completely different register: calmer, greener, with the sound of running water constantly in the background.
One thing matters above all: book your tickets well in advance, sometimes weeks. Daily visitor numbers are capped, and for the Nasrid palaces you get a fixed time slot that you genuinely have to make. Allow at least three hours for the whole complex.
Albaicín, Sacromonte and the city
Facing the Alhambra lies the Albaicín, the old Moorish quarter, with winding lanes, white houses and hidden courtyards. From the San Nicolás viewpoint you look straight across at the Alhambra with the snow covered Sierra Nevada behind it, and at sunset in particular it is an image that stays with you. Walk up through the narrow streets rather than taking the bus; it is a climb, but the quarter is worth the walk.
Further along lies Sacromonte, known for its cave dwellings and its flamenco tradition. In the centre you will find the cathedral, the Royal Chapel with the tombs of the Catholic Monarchs, and the old silk market of the Alcaicería. Granada is also a lively university city, which you notice in the prices and the atmosphere. The tapas culture is unusual here: order a drink and a plate of food often still arrives with it, free.
The Sierra Nevada
Behind the city rises the highest mountain range on the Spanish mainland. In winter you can ski there, in summer walk among peaks of over three thousand metres. The ski area is about half an hour from the centre, which produces the remarkable situation of skiing in the morning in March and sitting on a terrace by the sea that same afternoon.
Even without going up into the mountains you see them constantly. From almost every viewpoint in the Albaicín the white peaks rise above the rooftops, and that contrast between the warm ochre city and the snow behind it is one of the things that make Granada so photogenic.
Sights and tips
The Alhambra and the Albaicín are the undisputed highlights, but keep time for the cathedral, an evening of tapas around Plaza Nueva and perhaps a flamenco performance in Sacromonte. Book your Alhambra tickets in advance; that warning is not superfluous.
Granada is about an hour and a half from the Axarquía, so set off early if you are going for the day. Park in a garage on the edge of the centre, because the old city is largely closed to through traffic. Spring and autumn are the best seasons: summer can push well past forty degrees and winter is noticeably cold by Andalusian standards.
Your own car is the most practical way to reach Granada and explore the surrounding area. We are happy to arrange one, including for just part of your stay. All the terms are on our page about car hire.
Your holiday home near Granada
Anyone who wants to experience Moorish Spain at close range cannot skip Granada. Below is our range for anyone looking to rent a holiday home in Granada and the surrounding area.